ALICE EASTWOOD'S
"The Coniferae of the Santa Lucia Mountains"

The Santa Lucia Mountains take their name from their highest peak, which rises near the middle of the chain in Monterey County to an elevation of 6,100 feet.² These mountains extend along the coast of Monterey and San Luis Obispo Counties from Monterey Bay southward, parallel to the coast. South of San Simeon Bay they trend towards the southeast, losing their identity in the low hills of the Carrizo Plain. From Pt. Sur to beyond Pt. Gorda they present a precipitous front to the ocean, rising abruptly from 3,000 to 4,000 feet from the very edge of the ocean. Numerous mountain streams come tumbling down through quickly descending canyons and widen them, delta-like, forming small tracks of comparatively level land. These little benches are very fertile and well supplied with the purest water; so that, in spite of their isolation and limited area, they have been taken up by settlers, who are known throughout the county as "The Coasters."

These mountains are especially interesting to the botanist, since they are the southern limit of the flora that follows Sequoia sempervirens [Redwood] and is so characteristic of the northern coast forests. They also contain species most abundantly represented in the Sierras, as well as many peculiar to themselves. These different floras have their representatives among the Coniferae, so that the distribution of the Coniferae will indicate, somewhat, the distribution of the different floras.

Sequoia sempervirens and Pseudotsuga taxifolia [P. menziesii, Douglas Fir] are associated together, as in the forests further north, but the latter is not confined to the coast canyons, being found also within sight of the ocean on the ridge above, near the Los Burros mine, and in other places not visited by the writer. The redwoods scarcely venture above the fog line, which, in these steep mountains along the coast, is distinctly visible to the eye, as well as instantly perceptible to the sense of feeling. They are rarely found outside of the canyons, since the steep slopes of the hills offer an environment that is too dry. The soil is dry and the air also. It must not be thought that the redwoods and spruces here are miserable specimens. One redwood tree in Willow Creek Canyon is twelve feet in diameter, and a spruce tree in the same canyon is more than three feet through. This redwood is said to be the largest tree in Monterey County, and it is certainly a fine specimen.

On the summit of the ridge from which the ocean can be seen, Pinus coulteri [Coulter or Big Cone Pine] is the most noticeable tree. Somewhere in these mountains, in 1831 [actually in March of 1832], Coulter collected the first know specimens of this pine, noted for its enormous cones. His specimen probably came from near Santa Lucia [Junipero Serra] Peak, since he records it as growing with Pinus lambertiana [Sugar Pine], and it is only there that the two species are found together [as it will be seen, it was probably due to Eastwood's excitement at finding Sugar Pines in the same locality as did Thomas Coulter and David Douglas in 1832, on the summit of the Coast Ridge north of Cone Peak, that she failed to notice the Coulter Pines]. Pinus coulteri generally grows on exposed and lofty ridges, but in these mountains it extends down the sides of the mountain on the eastern slope almost to the banks of the Nacimiento River, where it is associated with Pinus sabiniana, the Grey-leaf Pine common on the low hills of the Nacimiento and San Antonio Valleys.

On the some ridge where Pinus coulteri abounds, Pinus ponderosa is also abundant, often growing with Pinus coulteri, but frequently forming extensive groves of scattered trees.

One little poor bush of Juniperus californica was seen near a never-failing spring on the Los Burros trail [the accompanying map depicts four springs along or near this trail, the Sycamore, Round, Basket and Bane springs]. Probably the species is better represented in parts of the mountains not visited by the writer. It is said to be common near Cruikshank's ranch. The trees so far noted can all be seen when crossing the range from the Los Burros mines, on the ocean side, to the San Miguelito Ranch, on the Nacimiento River.

Another trail further north is now known as the Plaskett trail; formerly it was called Mansfield's trail. Pinus tuberculata [P. attenuata is now the currently accepted name for the Knobcone Pine] is the most noticeable conifer on the eastern side of this trail, and the trees grow almost to the base of the mountain. Its lightly-clad branches and numerous, persistent cones readily distinguish it from the other conifers.

Looking down into the deep canyon of San Miguel Creek, south of the trail, but near by, and off into the distant canyon on the north that marks the headwaters of the Nacimiento River, peculiar trees can be seen lifting spire-like summits above all the others. These trees are known botanically as Abies bracteata [Santa Lucia or Bristlecone Fir], the rarest existing fir, and confined to a few canyons of these mountains. When once seen these trees can recognized as far as the eye can reach. While there are few individuals, comparatively, the number of small trees coming up in San Miguel Canyon assures us that the species is in no danger of extermination.

Mr. E. C. Mansfield and the writer visited this locality May 1 of the present year [1897], to obtain flowering specimens, which had, until then, never been collected. The trees were in full flower; the pollen had begun to float through the air, and near the tops of all large trees female flowers were plainly to be seen. Coulter records that only the middle branches bear cones. This was not so with the trees observed in this canyon. Owing to the great difficulty experienced by Mr. Mansfield in reaching the topmost boughs and in securing specimens, only a few pistillate [female] flowers were obtained, and these Mr. Mansfield carried down, holding the twigs, to which they were attached, in his mouth, so as to keep them intact on the branches. The specimens are in the Herbarium of the California Academy of Sciences, duplicates having been sent to Prof. C. S. Sargent to be represented in the "Silva of North America." The staminate [male] flowers were more abundantly collected, being so much more easily obtained.

The firs seen in this canyon had lost their lower branches, and therefore, lacked the symmetrical outline from the base to the summit which the most perfect specimens exhibited. The writer, some years ago (in June of 1893),³ saw two trees in a gulch further north which the Santa Lucia trail crosses, where the lowest branches reached almost to the ground, and the trees tapered to perfect cones with long, pointed tops waving plume-like in the breeze. The trunk, at the upper part, sends down long, slender branchlets that droop as do those of the weeping willow or weeping spruce. Even the upper boughs have a tendency to grow downward, thus rendering the foothold of an adventurous climber somewhat precarious, since the slightest breath of wind sways the slender upper axis back and forth.

The mountaineers were all enthusiastic in their admiration of this tree, which they name the "Silver Fir." When the cones have attained full growth they have a purplish hue, and the long, slender exserted bracts become gemmed with drops of resin. The upper part of the tree seems full of odd-looking birdnests set with diamonds. The beauty of the fruit-laden branches can perhaps be imagined.

Further north, near the [southwestern] foot of Santa Lucia Peak [Junipero Serra Peak], a third trail (spoken of above) crosses these mountains. It is known by the name of Santa Lucia trail [and now as the Carrizo and Gamboa trails], and is the most rugged but most attractive of all these trails. Long ago it was much traveled by the Indians, but now a traveler rarely crosses the mountain by that route. Is passes through the only grove of Pinus lambertiana now left in these mountains. The writer can never forget the amazement and delight experienced when coming upon this grove. One or two young trees had been seen on the way up the eastern slope, but their identity was only guessed at until the magnificent trees far above and beyond were discovered. Pinus lambertiana is said to have abundant formerly on the slopes of Santa Lucia Peak, and a few trees are yet left. Libocedrus decurrens [Calocedrus decurrens, Incense Cedar] also then grew on the mountain. While the San Antonio Mission flourished, the best timber on Santa Lucia Peak was cut down, and these two valuable species were almost utterly destroyed. In those days it is said that the Nacimiento and San Antonio Valleys were "black with Indians." Their houses, fields, and aqueducts gave life to the hills and valleys over which the beautiful oaks alone now seem to hold sway. Were it not for the few survivors in almost inaccessible places, and the timbers and other relics of the San Antonio Mission, the story of the former prevalence of the Sugar Pine and Incense Cedar would scarcely be credited.